Book Review: Michelin Eating Out In Pubs 2008

This book is neither here nor there. Not planned as a comprehensive guide, its entries don’t tempt enough for a selective guide to "destination" pubs.

Any one who has ever used a Michelin Red Guide for France quickly discovers that it is a geographically comprehensive book. Descriptions may be extremely concise but pick any place in France and there is a good chance you will find several places to dine and to stay that have been given the Michelin stamp of approval.

Spotty coverage, poor descriptions

This book does not set out to offer that level of coverage. Featuring only about 550 pubs, it barely touches the number of available pubs in England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland.

Instead, it presents itself as a selective collection of gastropubs where travelers and locals alike can find "good food in informal surroundings." These are places, the guide seems to suggest, that are worth driving cross country to find. But descriptions are so vague and cliché ridden that it’s hard to imagine why anyone would travel any distance to seek out any of them in preference to their local.

Each pub is given a full page, topped by a relatively dull picture. Most of the text describes the décor. The trouble is, a lot of very atmospheric, friendly, period pubs have awful food. What is needed to make this book really useful is more focus on the food and less reliance on phrases like culinary delights and tempting to your taste buds. What, afterall, are tasty, well presented restaurant dishes ? The topic is given better, more informative coverage in the venerable Good Pub Guide.