H.O. Ward is our occasional columnist. Read more pub reviews by H.O. Ward.
"Boys. Don't give up the ship"
When the USS Chesapeake was captured by the HMS Shannon, in June 1813, outside Boston Harbor, the Shannon's captain knew good booty when he saw it. Besides, no self-respecting sea captain of that era would allow the long oak timbers of a heavy frigate to sink to the bottom.That's how they ended up being built into The Chesapeake Mill in Wickham. The timbers give various clues to their origin when they supported the ship’s construction. There is also evidence of the ferocity of the battle, which gave rise to American Captain James Lawrence's immortal dying words Don’t give up the ship.
The mill ceased production in 1976 and is now an Aladdin’s cave for discerning shoppers which includes a tea room. Close by is Wickham Square, lined with Georgian houses, interesting shopping and substantial refreshment.
Wickham is well worth exploring for its pre-Roman history, dating back to the Jutes, and its early Norman church, built in 1126. But, of course, after a hard day's sightseeing and shopping, it’s time for the pub.
Greens Restaurant and Pub
Part of the pleasure of exploring interesting places is finding a good place to eat and Greens Restaurant and Pub is in the top of the range food wise. Situated at one corner of Wickham Square, Greens has recently been refurbished. While it lacks historical ambiance it is well laid out. The staff is well trained, courteous and helpful, and the food is worthy of a special occasion.Food is served from noon to 2 p.m. and from 6p.m. to 9:30 and the restaurant is closed most Mondays except on public holidays. It's a good idea to book (Tel: 01329 833197 or, from the USA, 011 44 1329 833197).
To Drink:
The bar stocks Guinness, Spitfire, Summer lightning, Peterman Artois, and Stella Artois. An extensive wine list includes a choice of 12 white wines, 12 red and champagne.
To Eat:
There's a fixed price lunch menu, including a starter, main course and sweet. Starter choices range from grilled red mullet with citrus cous cous to goats cheese grilled in a herb crust. Mains might include ragout of lamb with roasted vegetables and creamed potatoes, fillet of bream with green beans and new potatoes or roasted vegetable risotto cakes with parmesan shavings. And who can resist puddings like coffee and walnut brulée with shortbread biscuits, chocolate pudding with warm chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream, or apricot and pecan bread pudding with crème Anglaise.There's also a good selection of light bites - seared scallops, risotto cakes, imaginative salads, fresh fish and traditional favorites like steaks, fish and chips and, the very English, ham, egg and chips.
The dinner menu features many of the same starters and light dishes, adding such gourmet mains as puff pastry filled with baby leeks, spinach and sweet potatoes in stilton cream; chargrilled aubergine with Mediterranean vegetables and haloumi cheese; venison and quail in port and juniper; beef with ragout of wild mushrooms; roast rack of lamb, and chicken with sweet potato and ginger pancake. Traditionalists can still find a steak to chow down on at dinner as well.
The Cost:
The fixed price lunch costs £8.95 for one course, £11.95 for two and , £14.95 for three. Mains on the a la carte menu range from about £8.50 to £15. At dinner mains range from abut £12 for vegetarian dishes to up to £18 for other choices.Beer costs from £2.75 to £3.10 a pint. A large range of wines are available by the glass from £3.75 up to £7.75. Bottles range from £11.50 to about £30.
The Bottom Line:
Two of us had curried parsnip soup and my guest still talks about it. Our mains included ragout of lamb, roasted vegetable risotto cakes and seared scallops with smoked salmon. Everyone was enjoyable and, sadly, we were all too replete for a sweet. We had to wait for each course and, ideally, I prefer a more historic environment. But but the food could not be faulted and in good weather there is a pleasant garden for dining and drinking. The cost, for three, with drinks was £45. Not cheap perhaps but good value for the standard of cooking.
