We arrived early, parked and hiked across a muddy field to the monument. No one else was there and we walked around it freely. Posing for each other's cameras, leaning against the stones and pretending we were Druids.
It doesn't seem all that long ago, but things have changed dramatically since Stonehenge became the focus of modern day Pagan and New Age celebrations. Nineteen thousand people showed up to celebrate the sunrise of the 2006 during the Summer Solstice at Stonehenge.
To protect it, Stonehenge was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the 1980s. Access is now controlled. The monument is roped off and it is no longer possible to enter the center of the stone circle during normal opening hours, the way we did. You can still gain access by appointment outside those hours though. (English Heritage's online application asks what kind of ceremony you intend to perform). Check the English Heritage website for seasonal opening times, parking and admission charges.