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Taking Tea at the Wig and Mitre

By , About.com Guide

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Plum Cake Before Taking the Plunge
Taking Tea at the Wig and Mitre

The Wig&Mitre at the top of Steep Hill in Lincoln.

© Ferne Arfin

The Wig&Mitre serves modern, seasonal British food, much of it locally sourced from Lincolnshire's surrounding farmland. Expect game - venison, grouse - in season and, in the autumn, a menu liberally sprinkled with dishes that include apple, pumpkin, plums, peat smoked duck, Lincolnshire Poacher cheese and the like.

And the Plunge?

The Wig&Mitre is near the top of Lincoln's most famous street, Steep Hill, which lives up to its name. The half mile stretch connects the older and higher part of Lincoln with its newer section, below. Most of its distance, the street plunges at a grade of about 30 degrees - in some places even more - with a railing to help you hoist yourself up if necessary. It's mostly cobbled and pedestrian of course.

An All Day Respite from the Climb

The Wig&Mitre is well placed for a bit of reinforcement before the plunge down Steep Hill or some rest and relief after climbing up it. The restaurant has a casual, almost pub-like ambiance (though the menu is ambitious and priced accordingly), with food served throughout the day. Besides lunch and dinner, the Wig&Mitre serves breakfast, tea and light meals. Wines from the full list are available for breakfast from 9a.m. so if it's champagne and scrambled eggs you are looking for, this is the place. Because it's built into Steep Hill, The Wig&Mitre has several entrances, winding staircases and rooms on various levels.

Tea Time Means Plum Cake

We arrived in Lincoln too late to sample the lunch menu, but we were able to try the Wig&Mitre's version of Lincoln's famous plum bread. An afternoon tea anywhere in Lincolnshire is more likely to be accompanied by this local speciality than it is by scones, cream and jam. There are dozens of different recipes, some for a yeast risen bread, others, like the one served at the Wig & Mitre, more of a cake.

Though not as dense as fruitcake or date nut loaf, Lincolnshire plum cake is rich in currants, raisins and candied peel. Most recipes also involve staining the cake a golden brown color with all sorts of different ingredients - molasses, black treacle, strong tea, Camps Coffee Syrup - not all at once of course.

At the Wig&Mitre, we sampled ours toasted with the traditional accompaniments of homemade jam and Lincolnshire Poacher cheese. Next Page: Try our own recipe for Lincolnshire Plum Bread.

Wig&Mitre Essentials

  • What: Casual ambiance, sophisticated and seasonal modern English food
  • Where: 32 Steep Hill, Lincoln LN2 1LU
  • Price range: Moderate to high for dinner. Good value two and three course set menus are available for lunch and dinner.
  • Wine: A large selection of European and New World wines are available by the glass as well as the bottle. The full wine list is available from 9 a.m.
  • Open: Every day, year round, from 8:30 a.m. to around midnight
  • Visit their website
  • See a sample menu

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