H.O. Ward, a British pensioner, who visits pubs in the South of England, is our occasional columnist. Read more pub reviews by H.O. Ward.
Time and the tides
Curbridge is not really a village, but more of a spot on the map, not far from the village of Botley on the eastern edge of Southampton. When the tide is right, visitors in small boats and canoes can paddle right up the Hamble from Southampton to the back door of the Horse and Jockey. The owners of this handsome, traditional pub considerately provide a tide table on their website.
The Curbridge Nature Reserve
A National Trust wildlife sanctuary, maintained by the Hampshire Wildlife Trust, begins right beside the pub. This small reserve, with pleasant woodland walks and boardwalks for wetland viewing, is a place to spot reed warblers, curlews, ancient woodlands and saltmarsh plants. It's ideal for walking off a substantial pub lunch washed down by a couple of pints of ale.The Horse and Jockey Curbridge
This pub, in the hamlet of Curbridge on the upper reaches of the Hamble, is traditional and popular. Finding it on little country roads sounds more complicated than it really is. Just pay attention to the road signs. From the A27 toward Southampton, turn right at the Locks Heath roundabout onto the A 3051. Drive through the village of Burridge and just past a sign for Curbridge you'll see the pub on the left. If you're visiting from abroad and don't want to drive, a taxi from Southampton shouldn't cost you much more than a tenner and it's worth it.
Insider Tip
This is a popular place so make sure to make a reservation for weekend lunches and dinners at any time. They can sometimes get you an outside table if you haven't booked but it's better to be safe. Ring 01489 782654 to book but be careful when you dial. There's another Horse and Jockey not far away in a town with a similar sounding name!
The dining room is pleasant and, under new management, has been undergoing subtle refurbishments. The bar is small and the staff very friendly. For holidays and special occasions they put a great deal of effort into decoration. Outdoor facilities include a riverside garden, a children's playground (for the grandchildren) and good parking. And best of all, they serve lunch and dinner every day.
To Drink:
The bar stocks Strongbow Cider as well as Kronenbourg 1664, Fosters Super Chilled, HSB, Fullers London Pride, Fullers Chiswick, Guinness and Carling. Pints range in price from £3.60 to £3.70.The wine list includes eight reds, nine whites and a rose. In addition, there are 24 Gales "old country wines" by the glass in flavors like apricot, parsnip, elderflower and dandelion. If you're celebrating, they have some champagnes and sparkling wines and a 2002 Chablis DB that seems a bit dear to me.
To Eat:
At lunch there's a good choice of filled ciabattas or baps (like a burger bun), stuffed baked potatoes (we call them jacket potatoes), and light dishes like cumberland sausages or beer battered cod goujons served with chips (french fries to you) and salad. There are also meal sized salads and traditional pub mains like gammon steak with egg, chips and beans; whole grilled rainbow trout with prawns, almonds, potatoes and veg; burgers, steaks, lasagna, cod and chips and more.At dinner, the menu is much more elaborate though still good value. Three chefs prepare starters like grilled haloumi cheese on warm tomato and olive salad; hot smoked salmon tartlet with roasted vine tomatoes, pancetta and scallion risotto. There are at least ten main courses on the dinner menu with more specials posted on a board. They include roast pork fillet with maple and cinnamon glace on colcannon mash; wild mushroom polenta with roast asparagus, rump of lamb marinated in fennel and garlic on celeriac mash, and a range of fish, beef and poultry dishes. There's also a tempting array of sweets.
The Cost:
Beer costs from £3.60 a pint to £3.70. Wine ranges from £3.95 to £4.50 a 250ml glass . Bottles are between £10.45 and £13.95, with a few special occasion wines and sparkling wines at £23.20. The Gales wines cost £2.80 for a 125ml glass.Ciabattas, Baps and Jacket Potatoes at lunch are all £4.95 with a small extra premium for smoked salmon and Prawn Marie Rose (unfortunately a favorite of mine). Lunchtime mains are all £7.95 and there are Lite Bites for about £6. At dinner, main courses from the menu range from £13.95 to £17.95 while starters are from £4.50 to £5.95.
Special Feature:
The setting is the star here, with the river and the wildlife sanctuary providing a pleasant diversion.
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The Verdict:
Dinner is elegant but lunch is very good value here. I had scampi, chips and salad with a lemon mayonnaise that was good. My guests ate whole grilled trout with prawns and almonds, served with new potatoes and vegetables. We asked about sweets but only with an eye on the future as we were all very replete. We spent just over £34 for a meal and drinks for three. It was excellent value and I shall certainly go again.
