I've just discovered Muriel's Restaurant, opened in October 2011, a friendly, casual place serving delicious, more-ish, comforting food near South Kensington Tube Station. It's an independent - though the signs are that it has been conceived as a multiple and could be one soon. We can only hope that it keeps its small scale charm and generous style when it grows because Muriel's Kitchen is definitely highly recommended for breakfast, lunch, a light dinner or snacks.
The Gentrification of South Ken
The restaurant is a sign of what might be called the "gentrification" of the area - if it weren't already pretty gentrified to begin with. But what was true of the area in general was not particularly the case with the shops and cafes in the immediate vicinity of the Grade I and II listed South Kensington Underground station. In fact, in the past, the ambiance around the station had been relatively grotty - tourist pizza shops, cookie stalls, shoe repair shops, key cutters and the like.
The neighbourhood, which is the tourist gateway to the South Kensington museum district (The V&A, the Science Museum, The Natural History Museum), is also the heart of a big French community centered around the Lyçee Français and a major commuter hub for the tony areas of Chelsea, Kensington and South Ken.
The above ground part of the station dates from the early 20th century but the sub-level platforms of the District and Circle Lines date from the mid-19th century, making South Ken one of the oldest Underground stations in the world. It was also one of the first stations in the world to include an arcade of shops. These are still in use today and many of their fittings are original.
About Muriel's Kitchen
Restaurants near the station have catered to the fast food needs of transient visitors,but in the past few years (written in 2011), a better class of more upmarket chains have moved in - Le Pain Quotidien, Carluccios, Le Comptoir Libanaise. Muriel's Kitchen is a very pleasant and reasonably priced addition to these.
The Menu
The restaurant's short menu includes five or six main dishes, that change often, an assortment of original side dishes and one or two very good soups. On a typical day in December, the mains included lasagne, baked ham with cranberry Sauce, Thai green curry, pork and sage stuffing with chestnuts and figs, neat little steak and ale pies and char-grilled salmon with sweet chilli and sesame sauce.
Side dishes are the real stand outs of this place. Beetroot, carrot and cabbage slaw with apple and cranberry, maple and sherry dressing was one of the choices on the day I visited. I tried and then took home for later, generous portions of two different salads. A terrific roasted pumpkin squash salad with sour cream, chilli and peas was delicately warmed with slices of chilli, tossed with red spinach leaves and lightly dressed. The roasted carrot and parsnip salad I sampled included roasted red onions and basil as well as spicy mixed nuts, little surprises of crunchy flavor. Both were unusual combinations, the vegetables colorful and fresh tasting, the dressings warm and spicy.
Don't Miss the Soups
If Muriel's homemade chicken soup is on the menu when you visit, it is an absolute must. More a meal in a bowl than a soup, it is chock full of vegetables, chunks of chicken and potatoes - really memorable. Different soups rotate through the menu and I've heard good things about the ham and vegetable minestrone and the spinach and ricotta soup.
It's all prepared with a homey appeal - as if your mother and your grandmother were in the kitchen and just happened to be absolutely fabulous cooks. As it happens, the restaurant has been inspired by the owner's grandmother, and is named after her. There are also rich cakes, pastries and pretty cupcakes - that have the look and appeal of a Women's Institute Bake Sale table rather than the touch of a fancy patissiere. I sampled the coffee walnut cake which was scrummy with a cup of tea.
All the ingredients are sourced from named British suppliers and the emphasis is on fresh, organic produce. That extends to quite a few old fashioned soft drinks and fruit juices as well as a wine list of modest length. Wines are, I thought, a bit on the pricey side, compared to the rest of the very reasonably priced menu. But all wines are available by the 175ml and 250ml glass.
Ambiance
Publicity for Muriel's Kitchen's suggests the menu is slightly Mediterranean. Other than the boxes with dried lavender along the windows, I can't say that I've seen that on my visits; it all seems a homey variant on modern British to me. And the decor, with its painted wood panelled walls and pale ash furniture definitely has a more northern feeling - a bit like Scandinavia crossed with New England. Tables are supplemented by a small counter area with high stools.
The deli counter, where you can buy the dishes being served to take home, and the open-to-view bakers' ovens are part of the decor, as is the window display of cakes and goodies.
If I have any quibbles at all it's that there's a lot going on in a relatively small space. Tables are crammed close together, creating the occasional, good natured log jam between customers and servers.
Muriel's Kitchen Essentials
- Address: 1-3 Pelham Street, London SW7 2ND
- Telephone:+44 (0)207 589 3511
- Open: Monday - Saturday 8a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday 9a.m. to 9p.m.
- Prices: Moderate. Two courses for £10 or less
- Visit their website
- Follow them on facebook.
