Somethings Never Change - And Isn't That Nice?

Once upon a time - a very long time ago - I stumbled upon the little North Yorkshire town of Helmsley, quite by accident. I was so ignorant of my surroundings then that I didn't even know I was in the middle of one of the UK's best national parks, The North York Moors.

I was that great rarity, at the time - an out of season American - and the locals noticed - so I didn't stay ignorant for long. The owners of historic looking hostelry where I had stopped for lunch summoned the local national park warden, who duly arrived bearing brochures. Later, he invited me to tea with his Mum where there were more brochures and advice about the impressive Rievaulx Abbey in the North Ridings, nearby.

All of this was one of the stand-out experiences of my first trip to Europe. And the historic looking hostelry I found was The Black Swan. It's still there, still standing on the village square that looks exactly the same as the day I found it all those - ahem - many years ago.

Inside, however, it's all change - as Valerie France, our regular contributor from the North, discovered on a recent visit. The rooms are comfortable and stylish, the dining glamorous. But, it seems, the warm welcome has not changed at all.
Read Valerie's review of The Black Swan Hotel in Helmsley

_{The man in blue, one of our intrepid Northern inspectors, checks out the shopping in Helmsley, North Yorkshire. Photo © Valerie France}